Showing posts with label Catalonia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Catalonia. Show all posts

Friday, 9 May 2008

Some Girona legends-the Tarlà

Girona, like many ancient towns, has many old legends which are still celebrated even though most people have long ago forgotten why. Local schools and their teachers have a duty to pass on as many of these tales as they can to their students so that these traditions continue to have some relevance to the citizenry. The first I will cover is the Tarlà or harlequin of the Ramblas The Tarlà comes out during the Girona spring festivals and can be seen for about a month usually from mid April before Sant Jordi to mid May after the Temps de Flors or Flower Festival. You can see him hanging from a pole stretched over the Ramblas where they narrow and the street is actually called l'Argenteria. Along with many colourful banners which are also strung along this street it makes for a very impressive and photogenic sight. So why is there a dummy dressed as a harlequin hanging and somersaulting from a pole surrounded by banners? Well as they say fact is often stranger than fiction and I defy anyone to invent a stranger explanation than the real one. During the middle ages there were many plagues like the Black Death that swept through the crowded and unsanitary towns of the time and several people in this street had died ; as a consequence the city authorities had determined that the area should be sealed off to stop the plague spreading to other areas. During the weeks or months that they were cut off from all their fellow citizens some of the residents decided to cheer up their neighbours with displays of acrobatics from poles erected between the narrow buildings. No one knows if this was to give thanks for surviving or just another of those ideas that arise when you don't know if you will be alive in a few days so make the most of life while you have it. Anyway, the amazing part is that 500 years later we are still admiring the spectacle , even if most people are not sure what the meaning behind it is!

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

Can Xapa -chocolate making at it's finest

Can Xapa is a very well kept secret since it is well hidden in the old part of Bordils, a town that most people pass through on their way from Girona to the Costa Brava without even noticing. If you do venture into the old part of town however there are several surprises in store, one of which is the beautiful church and the other which is Can Xapa. The pastry and chocolate making here has been passed down through the generations to the current owners Esteve Fabregas and his wife but there is an issue of what will happen when they retire since they have no children and it does require many years aprenticeship. I was given a tour around the medieval fortified farmhouse which has been the shop and workplace for hundreds of years, all beautifully restored with old materials but not easy to combine the modern equipment needed with low ceilings and narrow corridors. The day I visited they were preparing one of the standard ingredients in many of their famous recipes-roasted almonds covered in caramel and sugar. This base configuration will turn into slabs of dark chocolate, individual decorated chocolates, catanies and other delicacies. The catanies are sugar coated almonds which are then rolled in cacao powder and are very typical in Catalonia and given as a gift. The process is to use local almonds, which have more oil and hence flavour, than foreign varieties and roast them in the oven. Meanwhile it is time to get the caramel prepared in the special heated bowl into which the roasted almonds are added. Once thoroughly mixed the sticky almonds are poured onto a bed of sugar and mixed so that the sugar granules stick to the caramel and this means that we now have individual almonds covered in sugar which can be handled easily. The next process depends on what the ultimate product will be but in the case of catanies each sugar coated almond is further rolled in cacao powder to take on the traditional colour. It is a wonderful place to wander around admiring the cakes, chocolates of many types as well as the savoury dishes they also prepare for taking away. So, the next time you pass through Bordils, make a short detour and you will not be sorry!

Monday, 7 April 2008

Devesa Park-Girona

The Devesa Park is not only the largest public park in Catalonia but also one of the nicest. Very close to Girona city centre it is easily accessible on foot and well worth exploring anytime. In the 1860's some 3,500 plantains were planted which now reach up to 60m high and provide long avenues with plenty of shade which are a perfect refuge for the hot days of summer. Bordered on one side by the River Ter with a nature walk on the other bank and with some important cultural buildings included in its borders the Devesa has something for everyone. Twice a week on tuesdays and saturdays there is the main outdoor fruit and vegetable market with all the vivid colours and hustle and bustle that brings. There are public tennis courts and a municipal swimming pool as well as a couple football pitches and an area used for volleyball which is especially full on the weekends with south americans. Dog-walkers, joggers, picnickers and parents teaching their kids how to ride bikes or kick a ball around or play on the swings, there is never any shortage of things happening. The cultural aspects take place in the"Carpes"which are temporary outdoor bars built in the middle of the park where live music is played some nights during the season(may-sep) and then the more permanent concerts of the Auditori a new modern concert hall which seats up to 700 people in comfort and has excellent acoustics and an international list of performers.

Monday, 31 March 2008

Rupit -medieval town

Coming from Girona or Barcelona it is an easy and fun drive to Rupit and will take about an hour. The main approach is via Santa Coloma de Farners or Anglès heading to Olot in the comarca of La Selva. At Val d'en Bas you turn towards Vic and a few kms along the main road there is a sign for Rupit. After climbing out of the valley at the top of the escarpment are signs to El Far which means lighthouse and gets it's name from the white limestone cliffs which were visible to fishermen from the distant Costa Brava. There are some nice walks along the cliffs and a restaurant serving typical local fare and busy on weekends. Continuing into Rupit itself and parking in the free car park just outside of town since the streets are too narrow for traffic there are various signs with tourist information such as walks, bike rides, hotels and restaurants in the area. Taking a walk into town across a wobbly pedestrian bridge over a river gorge is fun and sets one up for exploring the restored medieval streets. Other than restaurants and hotels it's fun to look in the various shops selling local cured sausages and several types of cheese made from cows, sheep or goat and aged for different periods. You can always ask for a sample before buying if you are not sure whether the stronger flavours of the older cheeses are for your palate. Another option is to buy some bread and cheese, ham and tomatoes and head down to the river where there are several picnic tables set up under overhanging rocks and it is always cool and shady here even in the hot summer months. There is lots of good exploring to do in the surrounding countryside with old churches, country restaurants and of course El Far which is a couple hours walk away. The vistas of wooded hills and small villages and farms below in the valleys are one of peace and tranquility and take you back in time.

Monday, 4 February 2008

Temps de Flors/Girona Flower Festival

Temps de Flors 10-18 May 2008 This is when Girona is truly at it's most beautiful but at the price of being crowded. This Flower Festival has been run for over 50 years and has developed a big following from all over Catalonia and the world. The weather is usually lovely and warm without being the oppressive heat of the summer months and since the whole Old Town is strictly pedestrianized some exercise is involved in following the signs to all the patios, churches, gardens and houses open to the public. The best time to look around is early morning before the crowds or from 2-4pm when many people are having lunch or a siesta or both. Everything is free with the only restriction being the queues that form outside the main sites such as the Cathedral, Arab Baths and some of the smaller Churches. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants with tables outside where you can take a break and absorb the atmosphere.

Monday, 15 October 2007

Girona Airport Info

Ryanair, Spanair and other airlines have established a base at Girona Airport where you can now fly to over 60 destinations all over Europe. There are ground transfers by bus, minibus, shuttle and taxi into Girona town, Barcelona and the Costa Brava from here. For more information on transfers by van or car with driver email: gironablog@gmail.com or call 0034 607 262 102

Top 10 things to do in Girona Province:

1- Visit the Dalí triangle-Museum in Figueras, house in Portlligat (nr. Cadaques) and Galas castle at Púbol. 2- See the ceramics/pottery made in La Bisbal and displayed in shops along the main road. There is also a museum on the history of area. 3- Visit the best part of the wild Costa Brava at Calella, Llafranc and Tamariu and visit the spectacular Cap Roig Botanical Gardens. 4- Visit the Greek and Roman ruins at Empuries with the Museum and then stop at the Iberian ruins at Ullastret to complete ancient history. 5- Take in some of the Medieval villages of Besalu, Peretallada, Sant Llorenç de la Muga which are fun to explore on foot. 6- Take a wine tour of the Empordà-there are plenty of wineries (Bodegas) to see and some are geared up for visitors (see separate entry). 7- Visit the interior and walk into the craters in the Volcanoes Natural Park near Olot and the medieval town of Santa Pau. 8- Walk or cycle around the lake in Banyoles then rest at one of the cafe terraces next to the lake afterwards. 9- Visit Palamos and the fish market after a seafood lunch around the harbour. Gambas de Palamos are famous and expensive!

10- Try some sports like cycling, golf, scuba, horseback riding or ballooning and then relax in one of the several Spa Hotels. See map for details:

Wednesday, 10 October 2007

Top 10 things to do in Girona town:

1-Take the tourist train around town. Its a comfortable way to get an overall feel for Girona and the kids love it! 2-Walk around the Old Town and explore the Cathedral, Arab Baths, Jewish Quarter and Museum. 3- Walk along the roman walls and explore the gardens behind the Cathedral-relaxing and fun. 4- Find a cafe/restaurant along the Rambla or Plaza de Independencia to sit outside on the terrace and watch the world go by. 5- Visit the covered market and buy some fish or meat and vegetables from the little old ladies that sit around the outside of the building. 6- Window-shop along the Rambla, Carrer Nou and Santa Clara where all the trendy boutiques are located. 7- Take in an exhibition at the Fontana D'Or (Caixa de Girona) or La Caixa where exhibitions change on a regular basis. 8- Rent a bike and cycle around the Devesa Park and along the bike paths next to the Rivers Ter and Onyar. 9- Take in a concert at the Auditori, La Mercé or Sunset Jazz Club. 10- Enjoy some good food at one of the wide choice of restaurants here in Girona (see Top 10 Restaurant list). See map for details: