The "Dansa de la Mort" in Verges (about 20km from Girona) is celebrated every year on the Thursday before Easter. In keeping with many of these traditional parades it involves Jesus' betrayal by Judas and subsequent condemnation by Pilates and sentenced to death on the cross. All this is acted out in costume on a stage in the main square but where things get more interesting is when Jesus carries his cross around the village complete with people his disciples, people haranguing him, his mother Mary crying out to him, the Roman soldiers marching alongside him, the thieves carrying their crosses and then a whole series of caped and hooded followers all holding candles and chanting or playing instruments. This spectacle is more impressive when you consider it starts at midnight and takes place along narrow streets in this medieval old part of Verges. The town is packed and the best spots are reserved hours ahead of time but the atmosphere is electric and in complete silence except for the participants in the procession. The highlight of the event are the 5 members of the "Dansa de la Mort" a legacy from the Middle Ages comprising of one skeleton wielding a scythe, another a clock without hands, a third with a banner proclaiming that death can choose you anytime and finally 2 child skeletons holding boxes with ashes inside. These frightening characters proceed to dance to the rhythm of a deep drum beat and circle and stop in unison for the whole procession. By the time they end up in the church for their final swirls and Jesus has been crucified outside some 3 hours have passed and it's time to head home along the streets lit by oil filled snail shells and marvel at how this tradition has managed to survive for so many years almost completely unaltered.
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